Training in Thailand: The Heart of the Matter

Guest post by Sarah Tynen

Meg and I with Professor Olavo.

On our first day of training in Thailand, we walked into the mat room. It was a large, air-conditioned, L-shaped room with wall-to-wall cushy judo mats and motivating phrases such as “For just one day in your life, train with the will to die.” plastered on the wall. I scanned the room, quickly surveying the situation. Were there any other women?

In a class of about 20 men, there was one other girl there that day, a white belt in a pink gi, her long, blonde hair tied back in a ponytail. Near the end of our first training session on that Monday afternoon, I rolled with her once. She was tough: aggressive, feisty, smart, and technical. I caught her in one submission, a triangle.

After we rolled, we lined up against the wall, waiting to be chosen for the next roll, and she turned to me. “How long are you going to be here?” she asked with a big smile on her face. “Just a week,” I replied. “Oh, not long enough! That’s so short… there’s so much I could learn from you, it’s a shame you’re not staying longer.” I just grinned in response. Girl power for the win. Unfortunately I didn’t see her again after that day.

The next day during the noon session, a petite girl with four stripes on her blue belt (“That’s basically a purple belt,” Meg whispered to me during the water break) showed up to class. That day we were practicing the bow-and-arrow choke from standing back control, and the girl was paired up with a short but very large man. I ran up to her and asked if she’d like to join Meg and me. She said yes and joined us. She was friendly and warm. She then told us she had been training at PTT for a couple years. We'll say her name was Leslie. While we were practicing the move, I noticed that although she looked petite, she was actually very strong. Her jiujitsu was tough and technical.

After practicing that move for a while, we had sparring time, but neither Meg nor I got a chance to roll with Leslie. After we shook hands at the end of class, I asked Leslie if she’d like to roll. “Sorry, I’m really tired today,” she said. Then she added, “To be honest, I don’t roll with women. I don’t know why, I just have a phobia of rolling with other women.”

Say what now? You have a phobia of rolling with other women?

She explained, “I’ve had some bad experiences, and I just get really nervous. I just don’t know how to roll with other women, so I just don’t do it. It’s a serious phobia. I’m terrified of it.”

At that moment, Meg came running up and said, “Seriously, it’s so nice to meet you, I’m so glad you’re here.” Then Leslie broke the news to her: “I was just telling Sarah, I have a phobia of rolling with women. You can ask Professor Olavo. I never roll with women.” Olavo came over and related a story to us about how one time Leslie made another girl cry during a roll.

Somehow amidst the conversation, I clearly remember saying, “That’s totally fine if you’re not comfortable with it, I don’t want to pressure you,” but then I suggested flow rolling, so she said okay. We started flow rolling and about 30 seconds in, she said, “But you’re not even trying, you’re not even resisting me.” I replied, “Yeah, I’m flow rolling.”

She looked puzzled and said, “I guess I don’t really know how to flow roll.” So I suggested we could roll with more resistance, and she said okay. While we were rolling, things escalated really fast. She was going 100%, almost spazzing out on me, strong, aggressive, fast, but also a bit out of control. Before I knew it, her knee hit my jaw hard. She immediately stopped and apologized, “See this is why I don’t roll with women. It freaks me out. I get scared and anxious and then people end up getting hurt.” I shook hands with her, said it was all good, and told her not to worry. Feeling somewhat awkward, I excused myself and headed out.

Our Phuket Top Team nogi class.

On our walk back to the hotel, Meg kept saying over and over, “I just don’t understand how or why this is a thing.” Indeed, it was very strange. This is how I understood it. I have to admit that it is different and nerve-wracking to roll with other women for me sometimes, especially women of the same rank as myself. If she’s a white belt, then I don’t worry and I focus on technique. If she’s a purple belt, I know she’s going to dominate me.

But if she’s a blue belt, there’s a little inkling of competition, of anxiety to prove myself and my belt level (though I realized this is an unhealthy attitude, I have to admit I feel this way sometimes). I can’t make the excuse that she’s stronger than me or bigger than me. It’s woman to woman. My most intense rolls are always against other women, because women don’t hold anything back when they roll with me. And so as a result, rolling with other women is always an intense physical and emotional experience--a test of willpower and strength, as well as a contest of pure technique. My most technical and most physically intense rolls are almost always with other women. And if I get submitted by another blue belt, I have to admit that my ego walks away a little bruised. I think that might be the situation for Leslie, but 10 times worse.

Leslie showed up to class two days later. When Olavo asked her if she wanted to roll with Meg or me, she said no. That was the last we saw of her.

We were disappointed there weren’t any other advanced women to roll with at PTT, but we didn’t let that ruin our week. Professor Olavo was a passionate coach, who taught with enthusiasm and vigor (even though he had an ear infection). He showed a few techniques every class and then would let us practice on our own, walking around the room, talking through the moves step by step, meticulously correcting our mistakes, and helping us perfect our technique.

He embodied compassion in a very real way: even though he knew Meg and I were only going to be there for a week, he taught us as if we were family. His compassion while teaching touched both of us and made a big impact on our positive experience at PTT.

The week was physically exhausting but mentally refreshing. Having the time to train jiutjitsu two to three times a day while being surrounded by friendly, like-minded people with similar goals and interests was a really cool immersion experience.

Besides one negative experience with a substitute no-gi coach, who consistently and blatantly completely ignored Meg and me during class, most of the other guys on the mat were friendly and welcoming. We made a couple friends, got lunch together, and hung out at the pool at our hotel, chatting about training and jiujitsu. After one week of training full-time, we were so exhausted that we agreed one to two weeks of full-time training was enough. Though there were some other people there who had been training full-time at PTT for over a year and planned to stay longer, living the dream.

Potential next stop? Brazil.

Much-deserved beach day after a great week at PTT.

Sarah has been training jiujitsu since 2011 and is currently doing research for her PhD in China while coaching jiujitsu on the side.

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A Travel Guide to Training in Thailand: Phuket Top Team

By Meg

First day of a week-long jiujitsu vacation at Phuket Top Team.

Phuket Top Team (PTT) is a renowned Muay Thai and jiujitsu gym on Phuket island in Thailand with a friendly atmosphere and full schedule of classes. The gym operates just off Fight Street, formally called Soi Ta-iad, but Fight Street has earned its nickname for the countless rows of Muay Thai and MMA gyms up and down the road. Smoothie stands selling protein boosts, healthy restaurants, and spas also line the street, and fellow fighters smile and wave to each other while passing. The environment supports and compels fighters to succeed, and everyone is there for the same goal: to push, fight, and improve.

Muay Thai is available at just about every gym, but jiujitsu (especially gi jiujitsu) is less common. PTT and Tiger Muay Thai are the two biggest jiujitsu gyms on the scene. Sarah and I chose PTT, because it offered more gi classes and a few more hours of jiujitsu. Here is some practical information we collected during our week-long trip.

Get Around

Americans and citizens from other designated countries (found on the Thai Embassy's website here) don’t need a visa for their first 30 days in Thailand. Just be sure to pick up an arrival card before going through customs. If you’re planning on training in Thailand for more than 30 days, the gym will usually help arrange a long-term visa for you.

While living on Fight Street is fairly budget-friendly, getting there is a different story. A taxi between the airport and the street costs anywhere from 600-800 baht. If you travel at night, the cost gravitates toward the higher end. Sarah and I arrived at Phuket International Airport at 2:00 AM. To make things easier on ourselves, we had opted to have a taxi pre-arranged by the gym, which quoted us a price of 1,000 baht. The taxi driver waited for us at the arrivals gate (despite delayed arrival time), stopped by a 7-Eleven for snacks, and showed us to our room for only 800 baht. Expect the ride to be about 50 minutes.

Once on Fight Street, everything you need is within walking distance, and walking from one end of the street to the other may take about 30 minutes maximum. Get around a little quicker or explore outside the street by renting a motorbike. Motorbike rentals are available at PTT for 200 baht per day. For a month-long rental, rates hover around 2,000 baht in the low season and 3,000 baht in the high season. Ask for a helmet with your rental and remember to always wear it. It's common for foreigners to be pulled over and fined for not wearing helmets.

Meg with Professor Olavo Abreu.

Train

All information listed below is subject to change and can be checked at phukettopteam.com.

• When to Go: Consider training during the low season from June to November. According to the PTT coaches, the low season is significantly less crowded while still providing plenty of training partners and an intimate atmosphere. Alternatively, during the high season from December to May, jiujitsu classes sometimes host upwards of 50 people in a mediocre-sized gym with one coach.
• Price: There is a long list of pricing options available at PTT. For reference, a single class is 300 baht, one day of all-inclusive classes is 500 baht, and one week of all-inclusive classes is 3,000 baht.
• Classes: PTT offers Muay Thai, jiujitsu, wrestling, MMA, and strength and conditioning. Brazilian jiujitsu classes are usually led by black-belt Professor Olavo Abreu twice a day.
• Vibe: Despite often being the only women in training, Sarah and I felt welcomed the majority of the time. Most people were friendly, helpful, and chill training partners. After hearing intimidating stories about other gyms, this atmosphere was a big relief and a fun experience.
• Extra Costs: You might need to buy a few extras while training. Water is overpriced at the gym, and a large bottle costs 20 baht compared to the 13-baht large water at Family Mart down the road. Tape is also available for 80 baht in case of injuries.

Wrestling class coached by NJCAA collegiate All-American Derek Heckel.

Eat

We do not recommend buying the gym's meal plan. The food was delicious, but buying a meal plan limits you to eating onsite or else wasting that money. Many meals can also be bought cheaper offsite. After we arrived, Sarah and I bought bread, peanut butter, Nutella, oatmeal, yogurt, and other goodies to keep in our hotel room. This allowed us to eat breakfast and lunch in the room most days, which saved a lot of money and time. There are several small convenient stores along the street where you can stock up.

When you get bored of peanut butter, check out the stretch of restaurants and smoothie stands. For a boost of energy, grab a protein shake. Just look for a stand with jugs of protein lined up on the counter. Here are just a few restaurants we tried during our week-long stay:

• Ali's BBQ: My favorite restaurant by far, and a popular choice with everyone. Ali's offers clean, healthy foods like pitas, salads, chicken breast, yogurt, steaks, and more on an extensive menu.
• Tony's: Another popular venue with a large menu. The food was fine and reasonably priced but nothing to rave about, and the service was unfriendly. Nonetheless, it's an alright place to grab a bite.
• Cocoville Phuket Resort: We were told this hotel served fantastic breakfasts, but when we tried to go, the place was closed. I'm not sure if the venue was under renovation or what, but it might still be worth a shot.
• Anchan: We tried Anchan for dinner and breakfast. The alfredo and curry dishes were delicious, but the American breakfast was meager and overpriced. Sarah got the oatmeal pancakes, however, and thought they were tasty!

Enjoying a post-training meal at the gym's restaurant.

Sleep

As part of the training package, we chose to stay in an offsite budget room at 3,000 baht for one week. The onsite budget rooms seemed fine but, according to the website, don't provide air conditioning or private bathrooms. I did get to see the shared bathrooms, though, which are used by everyone using the gym as well. Despite that, they looked clean and well-kept.

The offsite budget option was hosted by a hotel called Baan Khun Yui. Air conditioning, a mini-fridge, hot water, and a television were provided. Guests also have access to a fully equipped shared kitchen and a large washing machine, which costs 30 baht a load. Also - drumroll please - the hotel has a modest swimming pool where we could unwind in the afternoons between training.

Relax

Don't miss out on the opportunity to ease sore muscles with an authentic Thai massage. The incorporation of stretching to a deep massage works out knots and tension, and just plain feels fantastic after hard training. We tried several spas for different services during our stay. Maria’s near PTT gave my favorite massage for 250 baht. Another popular venue is Wan Massage, where Sarah and I received lovely facials. The family of sisters who work at Wan were extremely friendly and enthusiastic about their work.

Here are some prices we found for various services:

• Thai and Oil Massage: 250 baht
• Gel Manicure: 400-500 baht
• Pedicure: 200 baht
• Facial Scrub and Mask: 400 baht

These prices required some bargaining, and a 50-baht discount is typical. Keep in mind everything is more expensive during high season (December-May) and cheaper during low season (June-November).

Fine sands, clear water, and six-pack abs on Karon Beach.

Play

Training is the goal, but on Sunday the fighters will play. PTT is closed on Sunday for rest and relaxation, so take advantage of the free day to see Phuket outside Fight Street. A 20-minute taxi (for 300 baht) or motorbike ride will take you to the night market, where you can buy everything from knock-off watches and phones to quirky T-shirts and knick-knacks. Also head toward the back of the market to find the food court: a plethora of Thai food and sweet treats like chocolate-covered bananas.

Another nearby destination is, of course, the beach. Phuket's fine sand and clear water can't be missed. Kata and Karon are both nearby beaches good for sunbathing and swimming. Kata is the smaller, less developed of the two, so we chose Karon for our beach trip. After a 25-minute, 300-baht motorbike taxi, we arrived at a long beach filled with people. Unfortunately, there was a large amount of trash, probably both dropped by tourists and washed up by the current. Besides that detail, the beach was wonderful. If you go, be aware there are no motorbike taxis available for the return trip. We had to hire a car taxi for 400 baht to take us back.

If you don't have time or energy to leave Fight Street and still want to blow off steam, there are a couple of sports bars along the street where you can get a drink and meet people.


Meg started jiujitsu in 2012, got her blue belt in 2013, and has competed in five competitions.

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